Jan's and John's Peripatetic Adventure

New Orleans

Today we leave London for a month. I'm going directly to Berkeley but John is going to New Orleans for the Red Hat Summit at which he's speaking. We're disappointed that he won't get to meet Wil Wheaton, one of the other scheduled speakers who had to cancel because he is very ill. Get well soon, Wil!

If ever we didn't want to leave London this is it. Now that we have a tranquil house we don't have any of the stress we had before at the noisy apartment. And the weather just turned beautiful. But we'll be returning at the end of June so... see you then!

Swish Cuisine

This evening we had dinner at Maggiore's in Covent Garden.

Fabulous; it's lovely and delicious. The garden room opens to the sky and has only eight tables so it's small and intimate with excellent service. The food was French with an Italian influence but not so swish it was strange. Far from it, the food was simple but exquisite. And, most importantly: it is non-smoking. Since it's only a few blocks from our house we expect, like Le Deuxieme, it will be a frequent dinner or lunch choice.

Civilised London

Waking up this morning in London made me realize how civilised it really is, after a week in Southern Italy.

My overall impression of Southern Italy, particularly Naples, is that it is complete anarchy. The total lack of courtesy was shocking. I observed a universal "get of my way" attitude that I have not seen to this extent elsewhere. I saw temper tantrums on the street between taxi drivers and civilians and a particularly nasty outburst by an airport employee directed at a co-worker. The kind of behaviour that would require disciplinary action elsewhere. I saw people screaming into mobile phones with a rage I have never seen before. People had always described Italians to me as passionate but what I saw I would call out of control anger.

That seems to be ok for some people, particularly (I assume?) the people living there. But for me it was one of the most upsetting travel experiences I've had. Friends who have been there told me this is the way just Southern Italy is and that Northern Italy is nice; more like France and Switzerland both of which I think are fabulous places. I will say that the staff in the hotels was the exception, they were all wonderful, which made the trip enjoyable. Of course, it also made me not want to leave the hotel.

The Backroads trip itself was excellently planned and a lot of fun. The 2 leaders were amazing. Incredibly knowledgeable and helpful, cheerful and sweet. The other people on the trip were also great company and there was no one we felt we wanted to avoid; they were all nice. Although it turned out to be hiking and not easy walking we had a fabulous time. John has a lot more energy than me so he had no problem with the hiking and I enjoyed what I did and also enjoyed taking time off just to relax and enjoy gorgeous Italy. And it was gorgeous, as you can see from the photographs. That's what I'll remember most about Italy.

Astonished in Pompei

Complete photo album for this day is available here.

Wow. Today we went by bus to Pompei. It's one of those places I've heard about since I was 7 and was captivated. It really lived up to its reputation, it was amazing. The main thing I didn't realize is that it is huge. And the level of detail in the excavation is incredible with patterns of floor tiles exposed, ovens, tables, it's really wonderful. I remember them telling us about it in elementary school and I was fascinated. Seeing it in person has been a really important event in my life.

After an outside lunch the group got back on the bus to Naples. It was a sad goodbye to all the nice people we met.

Going Home

We took a taxi to the museum of archeology hoping to kill a few (eight) hours before our plane at 11 pm. Ummm... not. The museum had some amazing pieces from Pompei in it and some incredible statues but... that's it. There were many enormous, empty rooms. Even the rooms with stuff in them were bare and the downstairs was closed off. It seems like a bad joke to have such an opportunity to create an amazing museum and then make it pathetic. It definitely fits the pattern of laziness that we observed everywhere; multiple airport strikes, endless construction projects and a general attitude of maybe I will, maybe I won't.

We ventured out into Naples hoping to get a snack to kill more of the enormous amount of time. We went to what looked like a simple cafe and asked for gelato and coffee. The waiter rudely indicated that this was a restaurant and if we didn't want to order food then we should go elsewhere. Hmmm. In our experience, any restaurant in the U.S., England or France would have been happy to serve us whatever we wanted. Ok, whatever. So back onto the street which was like something out of a third world film about life in the slums with cars going all directions, ignoring traffic lights, pedestrians crossing ignoring the cars and nowhere to get a gelato and coffee.

So, we decided to go to the airport and wait it out there. We expected at least to be able to get a snack without being yelled at. The utter chaos of getting to the airport and then the airport itself increased our desire to leave. While searching for the bastards at British Air (my new unfavorite airline) we looked at the departures screen and saw a flight to Gatwick at 6:45. This was like being offered water in the desert so we treked over to Terminal 2 where all the charter flights are. I had never taken a charter flight and John has had nightmare experiences with them, but we decided to give it a try. We bought 2 tickets, got on the plane, landed on time, they didn't lose our luggage and we were home in London an hour before our scheduled flight would have even boarded! A miracle and a happy ending to a wonderful vacation bookended with difficult travel. One final note: at immigration leaving Naples airport they stamped my passport with the wrong date; June 27 instead of May 27. At least they weren't on strike '-)

Restin' and Hikin' in Ravello

Complete photo album for this day is available here.

Today I decided not to do the "easy walking" which turned out to be hiking; I'm too tired from all the hiking and today's looked anything but easy. John did go on the hike down to Amalfi, so I just hung around the hotel reading my book and listening to my iPod. I did venture out into Ravello a bit and it's lovely.

In the evening the group had a super-posh dinner at the hotel restaurant and it was excellent. Again, we thoroughly enjoyed everyone's company.

Roaming Ravello

Complete photo album of this day is available here.

The easiest day so far since we spent most of it on a boat. Fabulous views of the Amalfi Coast, passing towns and villages along the way.

We landed in Positano, the chatchca capital of Southern Italy. Lovely, narrow streets lined with the kind of useless junk that tourists are supposed to want to buy. We didn't buy anything but had a nice lunch.

Onto another boat and down the coast to the beautiful Ravello. It's a gorgeous town and if it had been the first stop on this tour our initial impression of Italy would have been positive, as opposed to the tourist junk why-are-we-here towns we visited previously. It's quiet and serene, with fewer cars, fewer nasty people shouting at each other and an abundance of the spectacular views we've become accustomed to on this trip.

The group walked to a villa on the coast that had gorgeous gardens and a spectacular view of the Mediterranean. Finally, this was an easy walk and we really enjoyed it. Then to the hotel which is 5-star posh and a gorgeous spectacle. The internet doesn't work but it has a bathtub so I soaked for a long time.

The group had dinner at Mamma Agata's which was really excellent. Simple food, beautifully prepared, it was really wonderful. What a pleasant and fun group of people this is, we really lucked out. Although I don't think there will be any lasting friendships like we made on our trip to Switzerland, the absence of the kind of obnoxious people that trip had is very enjoyable. There's nobody on this trip we don't want to have a conversation with which is a nice surprise.

Hiking in Capri

Complete photo album for this day is available here.

This morning we took taxis down to the town of Capri which is charming but a chaotic consumerist extravaganza. There's plenty of Prada, Versace, Chanel and whatever. We were not interested in any of it and, from what I could see, neither was anyone else, even though the streets were packed.

The group hiked the loop which is a path that goes along the side of the island, very very (did I say very?) high up. The views were astonishing and it was interesting to see the places that we had seen yesterday from the boat looking up. The hike was pretty strenuous and really too much for me but the scenery was truly beautiful. I never get tired of the view of the Mediterranean.

Then were were on our own for the rest of the day so we had lunch in the town of Capri in an amazing restaurant a little out of the way with a great view of the Mediterranean, my new favorite view in the world. We took a taxi back to the hotel and napped (that climb was really tough). Then I did internet while John had a massage. I know I know; you feel our pain.

We had a nice but mediocre dinner at the hotel restaurant and are now ready for the continuation of our journey tomorrow to the Amalfi Coast. I know we're spending the morning on a boat but fingers crossed there won't be any tough hiking.

Captivating Capri

Complete photo album of this day is available here. Photos of John's hike are here.

In the morning we all piled onto a boat which took us to the island of Capri. It was an exciting and beautiful ride, particularly as we approached the island. Then we transferred to a motorboat which took us around the island, sometimes getting very close to the rocks and once into a cave. It was fabulous!

Then we had the choice of ascending the 900 steps to the hotel or going by taxi up the narrow mountain road with hairpin turns and about and inch to spare when passing other cars. John took the steps and, yes, Princess Jan took the taxi.

I skipped the afternoon hike to the highest point on Capri but John went, his photos here.

I went with the group that decided not to hike and take the chair lift instead but it was closed for repairs. No problem, repairs are good and I probably would have been afraid of the elevation anyway.

For dinner the group ventured into the town of Ana Capri (where we're staying; the hotel is lovely) to a rustic local restaurant for a truly authentic Italian meal which was wonderful. Lots of food, wine and laughter with a group of really enjoyable people. Who knew complete strangers could be so much fun?

Naples to Sorrento

Complete photo album for this day is available here.

The group for the Backroads trip met in the hotel lobby in Naples and off we went by bus to Sorrento! The bus ride was only a little scary, winding through the hills and on the edge of cliffs but the view was incredible. Also wonderful are the people we're with, we couldn't ask for a more fun and interesting group.

We arrived in Sorrento, had an exquisite outdoor lunch and then walked down a steep hill for about an hour into the town itself. It is a classic Italian town with narrow streets and many many shops selling a zillion different things. The views are classic travel brochure, really incredible.

The hotel is very nice and we had our first group dinner. Excellent food and much too much of it; welcome to Italy!

Roman Holiday

Complete photo album for this day is available here.

Yesterday, when we got to Gatwick Airport they told us that the airport in Naples was on strike and they would be landing in Rome instead but would meet us at the airport and then put us on buses to Naples.

Well, they stranded us in Rome. No airline people met us; no buses to Naples. Everyone stood around looking upset for over an hour so finally, at midnight, we decided to find a hotel for the night and venture to Naples the next day. The airport Hilton was full but the very helpful staff put is in a taxi to the Sheraton. We had left our apartment in London at 3:30 in the afternoon and it was now 1:30 in the morning.

This morning we took the Sheraton's shuttle into Rome which dropped us off near The Forum. We realized this was an opportunity to see some of history we hadn't planned on so we walked through the ancient Forum and around the Coliseum on our way to the train station. Wow! We were very exited to have the chance to see these famous and beautiful ruins. Many thanks to the incompetence of British Airways for abandoning us in Rome making this unexpected sightseeing possible.

Got to the train station, bought tickets for Naples, had lunch on the train and in slightly less than 2 hours we arrived. We'd been told that Naples is beautiful and fabulous but to us it looked like one big deteriorating slum. It looks like it is literally falling apart and is filthy with dirt and decay. What is universally true, we're told and have witnessed as well, is that it is complete chaos. Cars go through red lights as if they weren't there. People cross the street in the middle of moving traffic. Honking horns are constant and equally pointless. It's a very different culture than anything we've experienced but one thing I will say is that Italian is the most beautiful language I've ever heard; it sounds like music to me, just gorgeous.

The hotel was lovely and right on the bay. We had an amazing and very authentic Italian dinner and a good night's sleep.

Walking Italian Style

Later today we are leaving for Naples, Italy for a Backroads walking tour. John has promised me that this will not be like the trip to the alps we made a couple years ago and that this one will be easy.

Neither of us has been to Italy and we're really excited. Everyone is always telling us how wonderful Northern Italy is (and I'm sure it is) but we've never heard anything about Southern Italy. I'm excited about going to Naples where my second favorite composer, Domenico Scarlatti, was born.

I'll be sure to take photos and will try to post them to the blog if I can. Arrivederci!

Friends Meets The West End

Last night we saw David Schwimmer in Some Girls.

We hated the tv show "Friends" but I just had to see him on stage. I expected it to be a travesty like the play Patrick Stewart was in a few months ago but, guess what: It was fabulous.

The reason is that the play itself was excellent. David Schwimmer played a slighly more pathetic version of Ross (if such a thing is possible) but he was actually very good.

The actresses were really excellent and we even recognized one of them as having played Mrs. Coulter in His Dark Materials a few months ago.

(Update: One of the other actresses turned out to be Catherine Tate but it was before we knew who she was. We think she's fabulous.)

And, yet again, a famous actor ended up in his underpants on stage, although this time he got to keep his undershirt on. That makes Christian Slater, Patrick Stewart, Joshua Jackson and, now, David Schwimmer we've seen in their underwear. I wonder who will be next?

Dinner at Xanadu

Yesterday we took the train to Oxford, our first visit there. The history associated with the city is really amazing and it's also very beautiful.

We had dinner with Ted Nelson whose work John has admired for many years. He and his wife Marlene were two of the most intelligent and fun people we've met and it was a wonderful evening.

A Spoonful of Sugar

Last night we saw the new stage version of Mary Poppins and it was a night of astonishing theatre.

I had distained it, thinking it would be too cute, and had put it at the bottom of the pile of possiblities to see. I couldn't have been more wrong; it was fabulous and John and I both loved it.

The film came out when I was 11 and I adored it. I had the piano songbook and played all the songs constantly until all my family and the neighbors were singing them in their sleep. Last night I was really verklempt hearing those wonderful treasures again.

The sets were spectacular and the actors were fabulous. And, yes, Mary Poppins flies! It's a must see.

Tetris

You'd think I'd have something better to do with my time, and I do, but I find playing Tetris really relaxing. Yesterday I had a high score of over a million points. I think the recent climb in my high score shows the level of relaxation I've reached now that we moved to a quiet apartment. Very exciting, except I'm up to a 1.5 million points in my Tetris back in Calfornia.

Sheep

There's a ceramic art gallery in Soho that we've been walking past for years so we're excited we now have the space to put things.

Today we bought this sheep which we both loved immediately. We put it on the area at the top of the stairs under the skylight. There's a lot of space to fill so we're looking for unusual/lovely pieces. Since our house in Berkeley is full it's nice to be able to start over '-)

Mrs. Weasley Meets AbFab

Last night we saw Acorn Antiques, a three hour musical extravaganza that could easily have been an hour shorter but was hysterical and amazingly entertaining nonetheless.

Once again I was stunned by famous familiar faces on stage. Julie Walters, who plays Mrs. Weasley in the Harry Potter movies and Celia Imrie who plays Claudia Bing, owner of the PR firm that competes with Edina Monsoon on Absolutely Fabulous. Both were really amazing on stage, particularly Julie Walters whose characterisation of a has-been soap actress with hemorroids was over-the-top hilarious.

No Telly

Life is returning to normal, only better. Since we don't have broadcast television and don't want it, we did bring our Season 3 Farscape dvd's. Very enjoyable, it's one of the best shows ever. I also have my complete Star Trek: The Next Generation dvd set and am enjoying watching them again. Tonight is our first theatre for this visit, more later.

Phone Home

We have telephone and internet now! John signed us up for DSL so we have access immediately to dial up until the DSL is installed. Dial-up internet, omg. But it works fine and we're so happy to be able to go online now in the new apartment.

We're pretty much settled in, putting away all the clutter from moving and unpacking and trying to figure out how the central heating works (it doesn't yet), brrr...

Cat is happy and found a spot next to the stair which makes for good spying on visitors while looking absolutely adorable.

Doris visited yesterday and we went out for an exceptional yummy dinner. Her new book will be out in a few weeks. I got a copy and it's really really wonderful.

Communication Breakdown

If you're wondering why there are so few blog entries lately it's because we still don't have internet in our new apartment and we have to go to our old apartment to use that. BT is supposed to show up Tuesday to get the phone to work and then we can have DSL installed, hopefully quickly.

The difference in living in the new apartment is extreme. Pleasantly extreme. Although the street is crowded it is nothing like the insanity of Neal Street. And the windows are new so little street noise gets through. It's really reduced my tension level and I'm enjoying living in London more than ever.

This is the view from our window showing the BT tower and Centre Point, which is at Oxford Street and Tottenham Court Road. Not that compelling but certainly nicer than the Diesel Store.

Moving from Hell

Ok, it was 4 times the nightmare we thought it would be.

The list of problems is so huge that I won't bother listing them. But somehow everyone managed and by 5:00 yesterday we were moved into our new apartment. A big thank you to Rob Kaye from MusicBrainz who pitched in with moving the furniture and really made a difference. He's staying in our old empty apartment for a few days and we've really enjoyed meeting him.

The plumber came and turned on the water, the alarm company came and reset the alarm and everything is lovely. You can see our celebratory champagne on the kitchen table in the photo below right.

We don't have internet yet so blogging will be sporatic since I have to go to our old apartment to access it. We hope to be online in our new apartment by the end of next week.

Empty Elegance

After 3 nights in our new house it's beginning to feel slightly familiar. Perhaps if it weren't empty it would feel like home '-)

Here are some photos from this morning:

1. Entryway view from master bathroom
2. Living Room
3. Kitchen viewed from living room
4. Hallway
5. View of stair and powder room at entry
6. View of bedroom

It is lovely and the architect will likely get an award for it. But since he forgot to put soap dishes in all the tubs, sinks and showers, and put the light switch for the bedroom behind the door, I won't be voting for him. Now that the holiday is over we can get on the phone and get things going like the movers, the alarm company, the water company, the telephone, the internet connection and shopping for a platform bed and washer/dryer. There promises to be never a dull moment on this visit!

Update: The move has been rescheduled for tomorrow morning, hurrah!

Stranded

The movers didn't show up.

We haven't heard from them so we have no idea what's going on. Tomorrow is a holiday so nothing can happen until after Tuesday. We're quite pissed off.

Last night we took our inflatable mattresses to the new house to enjoy the delicious silence, it was wonderful. However, there is barely any cold water so showering is a bit steamy. A problem to be solved later in the week asap. Another problem to be solved is the alarm system which went off by pressing a button on the hood of the stove which we managed to turn off but cannot reset. None of this is surprising which doesn't make it any less frustrating or hilarious, I'm not sure which.

Meanwhile, it's "Random Huggers Day" down on the street. Don't even think about it.